Backpackers head south to get drunk and float down the river that skirts the village of Vang Vieng. More sophisticated travellers zero in on Laos’ luxurious capital, Vientiane, usually before a visit to Luang Prabang.
Unusually for a capital, Vientiane lies just over a border – the one with Thailand, just across the Friendship Bridge. The influence that shines through most brightly, however, is French.
For a start, the name is gallicised. The original name, Viangchan, which means ‘City of the Moon’ in the native Lao language, proved too tricky for the French tongue.
Expect French food, French flowers (marigolds), even the Arc de Triomphe – well, a monstrous concrete mockup, known as the Victory Arch. Dubbed the Vertical Runway because it was built with cement donated by the United States in 1969 for airport construction, the arch is a touch taller than the original, to spite the French, but unfinished.
A sign blames this on Laos’ tumultuous history, presumably meaning the punishment inflicted by the French, Japanese, Chinese, Burmese, Vietnamese, Thais and Americans. But all that was a while back. Even the sign itself recognizes the monument’s deficiencies, calling it a ‘monster of concrete’. No spin here. Cynics may wonder why the landlocked Communist state still cannot get its act together and finish the job. The decrepitude which the arch epitomises also extends to the streets, so be careful not to step in a pothole or sewer.
Be careful too of the tuk-tuk drivers, who are as enterprising as any you will meet in Asia. Always fix a price and clarify your destination before you jump in. Otherwise, expect to be taken to the wrong side of town for rather more Kip - the not-quite-worthless currency - than you care to cough up.
The perfect remedy for a white-knuckle tuk-tuk ride is a session at one of Vientiane’s many excellent and ridiculously cheap spas. For a flurry of Kip you can experience a massage far less brutal than the kind meted out by Thai pampering pugilists - and in much more atmospheric surroundings.
Blessed with bags of Indochinese style and with the cheeriest of residents, Vientiane blends Gallic flair with Asian mystique. This style also influences and permeates the sauces and aromas of the exquisite cuisine available in the world-class French restaurants at Fountain Square. For those travellers who are heartily sick of the sweet and sickly white wheat products falsely posturing as ‘bread’ across almost all of SE Asia, the lunch baguettes and breakfast croissants available throughout most of Laos will make a most welcome change.
The culinary alternative to Fountain Square is the Mekong. Its near bank is lined with scores of cheaper but still good Asian restaurants where diners lounge on mats and watch the sun set over the river while sipping a cold Beer Lao, the default and delicious state brew.
If you can tear yourself away from Vientiane’s culinary attractions, then maybe visit the Lao National History Museum. Set on the high street, it sounds and looks boring, but is brought to life by its jargon of jingoistic rage against the invader. Check out the photos of sniper peasants and the displays of chunky guns. ‘Weapons ordered by the US imperialists for its puppets,’ one caption screams.
If your spine can handle the bone-jarring 24 km ride, then take a trip from Vientiane to maybe the area’s most memorable attraction: that memory card-consuming icon, Buddha Park sculpture garden. There, tilted at crazy angles, mammoth concrete statues of Buddhist and Hindu gods jostle with fantastical likenesses of real and imaginary beasts. The highlight must be the three-storey giant pumpkin-like representation of Hell, Earth and Heaven, which is entered through the jaws of a demon head. More kitsch than religious, but a fun day out.
Apparently designed by Salvador Dali while drugged beyond his eyeballs, Buddha Park dates back to 1958 and owes its existence to the mystic seer Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who left Laos after the 1975 communist takeover. The park cuts a contrast with the golden and gorgeous downtown temples that stick to the rulebook more but, like Buddha Park, also have a slightly hallucinatory feel about them.
Whilst these attractions are worth a visit, Vientiane lacks the truly monumental and instead captures the senses by its tranquility and idiosyncratic charm. It’s a place to eat, people-watch, relax, get a massage, maybe visit one of the respectable night-clubs. Vientiane lacks vibrancy but, for so many visitors with enough energy expenditure in their everyday lives, this is just what the doctor ordered.
“Vientiane is exceptional, if inconvenient”, wrote Paul Theroux in 1975, “the brothels are cleaner than the hotels, marijuana is cheaper than pipe tobacco, and opium is easier to find than a cold glass of beer”. A lot has changed since 1975: Vientiane is no longer, after a thorough purge by the communist regime, in any way a seedy or a druggy place. Whether this could have been achieved without sending so many people on decade-long sojourns in re-education camps is not something we can give an opinion on, as we would like to one day get visas to visit the country again.
If visiting Thailand, why not visit one of the country’s currently best three beach destinations:
The Southeast Asian Games owes its origins to the Southeast Asian Peninsular Games or SEAP Games. On May 22, 1958, delegates from the countries in Southeast Asian peninsula attending the 3rd Asian Games in Tokyo, Japan had a meeting and agreed to establish a sport organization. The SEAP Games was conceptualized by Laung Sukhumnaipradit, then Vice-President of the Thailand Olympic Committee. The proposed rationale was that a regional sports event will help promote cooperation, understanding and relations among countries in the Southeast Asian region.
Thailand, Burma (now Myanmar), Malaya (now Malaysia), Laos, South Vietnam and Cambodia (with Singapore included thereafter) were the founding members. These countries agreed to hold the Games biannually. The SEAP Games Federation Committee was formed.
The first SEAP Games were held in Bangkok from 12-17 December, 1959 comprising more than 527 athletes and officials from Thailand, Burma, Malaysia, Singapore, South Vietnam and Laos participating in 12 sports.
At the 8th SEAP Games in 1975, the SEAP Federation considered the inclusion of Indonesia and the Philippines.The two countries were formally admitted in 1977, the same year when SEAP Federation changed their name to Southeast Asian Games Federation (SEAGF), and the games were known as the Southeast Asian Games. Brunei was admitted at the 10th SEA Games in Jakarta, Indonesia, and East Timor at the 22nd SEA Games in Hanoi, Vietnam.
The 24th SEA Games held in the Thailand, which started from 6 December and ended on 15 December 2007, hosting the biennial event for the sixth times and it is also the most protested SEA Games ever.The next host for the SEA Games is in Laos.It was that the Laos to host the binneial games for the first time
Photo: Model of new national stadium of Laos for 2009 Sea Games
The Sub-Committee for Tobacco Control and the Tobacco Control Taskforce expect to have smoke-free zones declared for the 25 th Southeast Asian (SEA) Games in 2009.
The Chairman of the Tobacco Control Taskforce, Prof Sithat Insisiengmay, told Vientiane Times on Monday that his taskforce and the sub-committee of the Lao National Sports Committee first met last month and are now in the process of drafting a decree before sending it to the Prime Minister for signing.
“This decree will help us achieve our goal of a tobacco free games, with events held in Luang Prabang, Savannkhet provinces and Vientiane,” he said.
He said the taskforce had also successfully implemented smoke-free zones in the Ministry of Public Health, and most hospitals in Vientiane as well as provincial hospitals of Luang Prabang and Savannakhet.
Hospitals in Champassak province have already sent a proposal to the taskforce, which should be implemented early this year, he added.
“Ourselves, the World Health Organisation (WHO), the Adventist Development and Relief Agency and the Southeast Asia Tobacco Control Alliance are together pushing for the implementation of a smoke-free 25 th SEA Games,” said an assistant of WHO's Tobacco Free Initiative Programme, Dr Bounlonh Kesouvannasane.
He added that funding would be needed for a media campaign, informing the various committees who work for the games and publishing material.
The new Tobacco Control Law also passed the first step in Sub-Committee level at the Ministries of Public Health, Industry and Commerce, and Justice and the Prime Minister's Office, he said.
He added the draft will be sent to a committee of nine ministries for consideration before sending it to the 5 th session of sixth legislature of the National Assembly in 2008 for approval.
Smoke-free areas are in line with the World Health Framework Convention on Tobacco Control (FCTC) ratified by Laos in 2006.
The Lao National Sports Committee on Tuesday met with officials from those national sporting federations that are not expected to pick up medals at the 25 th SEA Games, to be held in Vientiane in 2009.
The meeting, convened to discuss possible improvements to the country's sporting competency, was attended by the Vice President of the Lao National Sports Committee, Mr Somphou Phongsa, and officials from the golf, bowling, snooker, karatedo, swimming, football, athletics, badminton and tennis federations, amongst others.
“Every sporting federation must have a main sponsor that will support preparations for the games and organise the selection of our best athletes,” said Mr Somphou.
“Each federation must be equipped with an experienced adjudicator, trainer and team, and have secured sufficient funding to support the country's efforts at the games,” he said.
Athletes from a number of sporting disciplines are currently not performing at a level that will ensure success at the SEA Games. These teams were without medals at the 24 th SEA Games held in Thailand last year, and without improvements in training and skills, will find it difficult to compete at the international level again next year, warned Mr Somphou.
Teams competing in petanque, judo, Muay Thai, taekwondo, wushu, sepak takraw, wrestling, boxing, karatedo, pencak silat and rugby, however, are expected to go on to even greater heights, after winning five gold, seven silver, and 32 bronze medals at last year's games.
Sepak Takraw (Malay: "kick" and Thai: "takraw") [1] or Kick Volleyball is a sport native to Southeast Asia, resembling volleyball, except that it uses a rattan ball and only allows players to use their feet and head to touch the ball. A cross between soccer and volleyball, it is a popular sport in Thailand, Cambodia, Malaysia, Laos, Philippines and Indonesia.
In Thailand, the game is simply called Takraw. It is also thuck thay (Lao: "twine" and "kick").
Similar games include footbag net, footvolley, jianzi and sipa.
History
Sepak takraw was almost definitely based on the Chinese game of cuju (a name which also means "kick ball"). The sport would have been brought in through early trade and had already become popular in Malaysia and Thailand by the early 1400s. Back then it was called Takraw in Thai or Sepak Raga (literally "kick rattan ball", because the ball is made of rattan) in Malay and played mainly by men and boys standing in a circle, kicking the ball back and forth between them.
In Bangkok, murals at Wat Phra Kaew depict the Hindu god Hanuman playing takraw in a ring with a troop of monkeys. Other historical accounts mention the game earlier during the reign of King Naresuan of Ayutthaya. The game remained in its circle form for hundreds of years, and the modern version of sepak takraw began taking shape in Thailand sometime during early 1800s. In 1829, the Siam Sports Association drafted the first rules for takraw competition. Four years later, the association introduced the volleyball-style net and held the first public contest. Within just a few years, takraw was introduced to the curriculum in Siamese schools. The game became such a cherished local custom that another exhibition of volleyball-style takraw was staged to celebrate the kingdom’s first constitution in 1933, the year after Thailand abolished absolute monarchy. Later in 1935, the game was first played differently in in the state of Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia during the Silver Jubilee celebration of SMK King George V. [2] By the 1940s, the net version of the game had spread throughout Southeast Asia, and formal rules were introduced. In the Philippines the sport was called "Sipa", in Myanmar, or Burma, it was dubbed "Chinlone", in Laos "Kator", "cầu mây" in Vietnam and in Indonesia "Raga." [1]
International play is now governed by ISTAF, the International Sepak Takraw Federation. The King's Cup Sepaktakraw World Championship is held every year in Thailand.
This new national stadium has been constructed at Km 16 in Xaythany district on Road 13 South of Vientiane city and is expected to be ready 3 months before the SEA Games start. The swimming pools, golf and tennis courts of world standard will be built near the Lao International Trade Exhibition and Convention Centre (ITECC).
The Lao national sport committee announced to organise some sports events in Vientiane, Luang prabang and Savannakhet provinces. The traditional boat racing, canoeing and other events will be held in Vientiane province. The first round of the men football competition will be held in Savannakhet because the new 15,000-seat stadium is completed. The new stadium in Luang prabang province will be used for women football competition.
Photo: New stadium used for the opening ceremony of the 7th National games in Savannakhet province, central Laos.
Photo: New stadium in Luang prabang province, nothern Laos.
Totally 25 sports will be competed at the 25th SEA GAMES in Vientiane, Laos including Lao traditional sports such as archery, top spinning and boat racing.
The Philippines will have to wait a foreseeable future to reclaim their Southeast Asian Games gold medal from Thailand.
Laos on Friday in Nakhon Ratchasima, Thailand announced its intention to slash the number of disciplines from 43 to only 25 for the 2009 edition of the regional event which includes baseball as one of those non-inclusions.
Other sports to be axed include basketball, gymnastics, cycling, softball, and triathlon.
Baseball has been a part of the games since the 2005 games in Manila that saw the host country taking the gold medal over Thailand. On the other hand, the Thais dethrone the Filipino batters to capture the crown this year.
The list includes archery, athletics, badminton, bowling, boxing, football, futsal, golf, handball, judo, karate-do, muay, petanque, pencak silat, sepak takraw, shooting, shuttle cock, snooker and billiards, table tennis, taekwondo, tennis, traditional boat race, volleyball/beach volleyball, wrestling and wushu.
Officials from the next host cited the lack of facilities, little number of competitors, and weak participants as reasons for the cutback.
The games will be held in Vientiane for the 2009 games scheduled in December. It will be the lowest number of events to be held since the 1999 meet in Brunei which saw only 21 sports held in the oil-rich nation.
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